We headed up through the Sound of Raasay with Plockton behind us and the intention of making progress towards the Outer Hebrides. We were blessed with relatively sunny and relatively warm weather (several layers still required!) and some decent breeze but the star of the day was the landscape and geology of the whole area but particularly the Skye coastline.
The pictures are not particularly high quality but capture the coastline far better than I can describe; it was spectacular.
We saw very few other ships or boats but were overflown by a couple of C130, Hercules transport aircraft that headed away to the south west over Skye ... as it was a Friday afternoon we felt it was extremely unlikely that these were RAF aircraft!
We rounded Rubha Hunish on the north coast of Skye and noting the forecast of a south westerly gale the following morning we headed into Loch Greshornish where the Clyde Cruising Club’s guide promised a sheltered and safe anchorage. Having avoided a few fish farms we found a quiet spot, set the anchor, had a very quick bite to eat, inflated Terry and headed ashore to the pub in the nearby village of Edinbane. We found the pub about a mile down the road just as the lights were being turned off, it was 10:30 pm and it had clearly been a quiet Friday night! So, back on-board, stow Terry, a quick drink and ready for an early start the following day in order to be underway and heading up towards the Hebrides by the time the gale blew through the area.
The forecast was accurate and despite several reefs we were probably ‘over-canvassed’ as we charged up towards the Hebrides and a harbour at Scalpay, a small island joined to Harris by a road bridge. Despite a few hairy moments trying to pick out our route in amongst the islands in very poor visibility, gusty winds and with a ‘Cal-Mac car ferry bearing down on us we were tucked into Scalpay’s North Harbour by early afternoon. A small but good little pier with showers, power, water etc., largely thanks to EU funding!
Scalpay was a tiny village with a small shop and bistro but these were closed until later in the month. Tarbert, the nearest town was a couple of hours walk away but we knew everything was likely to be closed the following day, Sunday, so we wasted little time and quickly set off for a long walk but were fortunate to be able to flag down the community minibus. We had a quick look around the town, did a little food shopping, managed a quick visit to the Harris tweed shop and enjoyed a couple of drinks in the Tarbert Hotel, seemingly surrounded by cyclists, before catching the bus back to Scalpay.
The following morning, Sunday, I planned to sit in the back of the local village church to get a feel for life in the local community however I quickly revised my plans when I noted parishioners gathering, all the ladies were wearing hats and the men were in dark suits, my scruffy sailing clothes would have looked very out of place. I was fascinated to note that there was a choice of two local churches; the Free Church and the Free Church (Continuing) and meanwhile, down at the children’s playground, that was strictly no fun to be had on a Sunday! So, with no church and no play Nigel and I headed off to Eilean Glas, the lighthouse that we couldn’t see through the rain the previous day.
Back on-board later that evening we were treated to a pretty spectacular sunset, the first we’d seen for a few weeks and a good sign for the following few days.
